Alternative security arrangements

Here are two examples of our formal, and informal, security arrangements at the villa in Kabul. I'll let you decide which is which. There are more local Afghan guards on duty than shown, and other security measures that can't be shown. The neighbours have a cat that enjoys walking along the wall above the dogs, driving them absolutely nuts. I think the dogs are just waiting for the cat to fall.

Tapa Bibi Mahroo - Kabul

Spent a good chunk of today out and about since the project deadline was suddenly extended last night and we could take a breather. Went to a couple of client sites, looked at Afghan rugs, got stuck in a goat traffic jam and then went up Tapa Bibi Mahroo (arial view attached), the 500 foot hill smack dab in the middle of Kabul.

The Soviets built an observation post there during their occupation and some bright bulb had the idea of building an Olympic sized pool there, complete with diving boards. Didn't pause to consider how they were going to get water up the hill. It's never been filled with water. Ever. After the Soviets, the Taliban found a use for it. The bound and marched alleged adulterers and apostates up to the high platform and pushed them off, or shot or bayoneted them, and let them fall 60 feet to the bottom. Brutal. Now people go up there to get the full 360 degree view of the sprawl of Kabul.

On Fridays the dusty gravel lot there is used for local dog fights. Not a safe event to observe as the owners of losing dogs have been known to start automatic gun fights with winning owners. We're not in Kansas anymore Toto....

12 more hours and I'm off to Dubai. No more grit and dust in my eyes, hair and bed. Looking forward to a room with AC.

Out and about in Kabul

We went out to the far side of town yesterday to see the sights, most specifically the old Queen's Palace, now ruined by war. There is a new, small, national museum nearby with some amazing 3,000 year old treasures. Armed guards frisked us on the way in and out. No surprise as there is little to protect what is inside. Wish we had more time but can't stay in one place too long for security. We tried to get in to the soccer stadium (famous for Taliban public executions. Remember The Kite Runner scenes?) but it was closed. The houses on the hillside are the far side of the TV antennae covered hill we see from the roof our villa. I have no idea how they get up to those homes. I was able to get some street shots from the vehicle, but no images of police, military or the "ring of steel" check points around town. Not allowed. Then off ot Chicken Street (nobody could tell me where the name comes from) for a little last minute shopping. This area has been around since pre-Soviet times as the place for foreigners to go. Saw lots of locals, few -expats. Off to Dubai tomorrow morning. Very much looking forward to getting away from the constant dust in my hair and eyes, not to mention a good meal, soft bed and large shower. Not that I'm whining. Much. We're out again this morning to see a client and maybe get up on top of the other hill overlooking town. Apparently soldiers won't let you take pictures looking down in to town as you can see the Presidential Palace and too many secure locations. Still, it should be interesting.

Afghan wedding

This was certainly unlike any wedding I've been to. Never did see the bride. You can see the light brown wooden temporary wall that separates the men from the women in some pictures. Guests start arriving at 6 and largely just sit and chat. No food or water in sight and the music is deafening. We arrived at 7:30 and as the only 2 foreign guests somebody ran out to the street vendor and got us each a dusty bottle of water. Did I mention the music never stops and its deafening? Hall starts to really fill around 9 and the dancing starts to pick up. 9:30 the groom appears and goes round to each table to shake hands. He's now married. (That's him in the bottom 3 pictures, suit and tie). Only the two families are witnesses to the ceremony. Now the place is jammed and the groom is placed in a circle of men and dances for everyone. Next dance he's sitting and everyone dances around him. Very passionate and wonderful to witness. Second dance he's seated and men take turns dancing in front of him. (If you click on a picture, it will enlarge) At one point they've picked him on his chair and carry him round. I'm told this was a "small" wedding with only 700 guests. A larger wedding is 5,000 guests. The building we were in (there are over a dozen similar wedding buildings in Kabul now, complete with several associated businesses - traditional Afghan wedding dresses, mens's suits and tuxes, and 3 new limo companies) was five floors with a wedding party on each floor, all with bands competing to see who could be the loudest. Kids running everywhere. Some men in traditional dress, others in suits (very shiny) and some younger guys in T-shirts and a few ball caps. One of the odder sights was a guy wearing a Guiness beer T-shirt, in a Muslim wedding. The traffic outside had to be seen to be believed. Didn't see a woman all evening. They have their own entrance at the other end of the building. We left around 10:30 and begged off the meal as we had to get back for a Skype conference call for work. Unfortunatley it was a very big deal that we couldn't stay for the hospitality of hte meal. Dusty drive through the back streets of Kabul. Hit a police check and had to produce our passports. No Cancuks flags or jerseys in sight. Back to the villa for a handful of Advil for the splitting headache. Did I mention that the music, although rhythmic, was deafening? Fascinating night. My ears are still ringing this morning.