Side trip from Hoi An

After the first fitting and while waiting for the final tailoring of my shirts, we wandered down to the pier in Hoi An and stepped on to one of the local ferries over to Cam Kim Island to see village life on the other side of the Thu Bon River. 100,000 Vietnam Dong ($5 US) return for 2, which is more than locals pay. The ferries all have self-serve drive on/drive off bicycle and motor bike parking, passenger seating below deck (NOT sized for Westerners) and for busy days, more motor bike parking on the deck above the seating area. The Captain sits on a tiny plastic stool, controls speed with a foot on a lever and a crewman goes below deck to hand crank the engine to start it. One tiny woman to direct parking and a young guy who directs loading, takes money and then sits in his hammock (crews quarters) during the voyage. Click on the photo to enlarge it. Unlike BC Ferries, no flourescent safety vests, steel toed boots, safety briefing or life preservers. Seating and cargo capacity is limited only by the boats ability to stay afloat. After walking about the tiny island, seeing the chickens, cows and boat bulding, we stopped at the only cafe/store for something cold. We grabbed the only cold can of beer on the entire island and opted to drink it standing up. Note the plastic stool size. I was afraid that either I'd break it or couldn't get back up again after sitting down. We were a definite oddity on the island.

Day trip to Hue

Sieglinde stayed pool side while I hired a guide and car for a day trip north over the Hai Van Pass and up the coast to the old imperial city of Hue, located on the Perfume River. My guide was born in DaNang, but his family moved north walking up the Ho Chi Minh Trail to Hanoi during the American War as they were Viet Cong. The trip took six months. He recounted stories of being in elementary school in Hanoi when American B52's would bomb the city.

We stopped at the top of the Hai Van Pass for pictures. Great view ahead of the beach at Lang Co (there is a second photo of the beach and town), and of some of the bunkers built by French and US troops at different stages of the war. In the 15th century, the pass was the boundary between Vietnam and the Kingdom of Champa.

I'm sitting at the base of the Thein Mu Pagoda, founded in 1601. The Perfume River is right behind the photographer, and Loas is only a few hours away up river. We also toured one of the royal tombs outside town. More stair climbing in the heat.

The other pictures are from inside the Citadel and imperial palace grounds. Massive site, surrounded by 10 km of wall and moat. Almost all the buildings were destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive when North Vietnamese forces held it for almost a month. Fighting was heavy and US forces eventually shelled the entire site and used napalm to take back control. Less than 1/4 of the site has been re-built. Fascinating place, but after walking about in 35 C weather with high humidity for 3 hours I hit the saturation point.

Hoi An, VietNam

Hoi An is an ancient fishing and sea trade village, over a 1,000 years old and located 40 minutes south of DaNang. The oldest part of town is car-free (thankfully) and devoted to tourism now. Tiny place with over 500 tailors. Want something made quick? This is the place to come. We were there the other day, then went back in the evening so I could be measured for some linen shirts and to see the village lit up at night. The poor girl had to stand on tip toes to measure me. The dip fish net is classic here. Lowered in to the water at night with a lantern above to lure the fish. Note the wooden crank system on shore to raise and lower it. Another photo shows a typical sidewalk cafe (Starbucks has nothing to worry about) and the lanterns on the bridge pay homage to the tailors in town. Interesting little place to visit.

DaNang

Five nights on the beach. It's a far different world from Hanoi with its traffic congestion, honking horns and chaos. Soft white sand, amazingly warm water for a 6:00 am swim in the South China Sea and great place to relax. We're 30 minutes from the ancient village of HoiAn (world UNESCO heritage site), and 2 hours south of the old imperial city of Hue. 

Police training in Hanoi

Wrapped up 7 days of training of police trainers in child sexual abuse investigations. Great group. We survived the vodka shots for the 66th police anniversary "friendship" luncheon, karoke in the classroom before the graduation ceremony (Sieglinde sang something in English and the group loved it), speaches and certificates and the closing "friendship" party with yet more vodka shots. Now we're in DaNang at a fabulous beach resort for R&R.

Working in Hanoi

It's been a great first week. Sieglinde missed the class photo at the People's Police Academy, with Ho Chi Minh looking down upon us. Last time I was there was during the worst rain storms in 40 years. Massive flooding across the region and the plaza in front of the statue was a lake we had to wade across while carrying our shoes, with pants rolled up to our knees.

Sieglinde was mobbed by a school group yesterday out front of the training site. They all had to practices their 2 or 3 words of English. The training is going great. 32 senior instructors from across the country. Very active group, lots of old faces from past trips, lots of old stories to re-tell in front of Sieglinde.

Today is the 66th anniversary of the founding of the national police, so I was called upon to make an inspirational speach (with 4 minutes notice) and present a ceremonial boquet of flowers to the senior class representative. Big round of applause. And what does this mean in practical terms...."friendship" luncheon with far too many vodka shots!

Back in Hanoi....again

35 C and 90% humidity. A most uncomfortable time of the year to be here. Sieglinde's first trip, my tenth or eleventh.

So, there we are at the Temple of Literature, a 1,000 year old series of pagoda temples, gardens ponds and compounds where Confucian doctoral students studied. Very popular with tourists and locals alike, especially on a sunny Sunday morning. We're walking about and this group of giggling young girls descend upon us asking to have their picture taken with me. Every one of them had a phone camera. I'm guessing it wasn't my incredible good looks but sheer size that fascinated them. Made for a funny moment, but not the only time we were approached for pictures while walking about the Temple.

Had breakfast across the street at Koto, a fabulous multi-floor restaurant that is an intensive training/apprenticeship program for local street children teaching them life skills, English, customer service, food prep, etc. Always stop there at a couple of times when in Hanoi to support them. Can you decipher the meaning behind the sign on the bathroom wall?

Last picture is Sieglinde in "our" alley. To the left of her you can make out our hotel sign "Elegant 5". Huge, furnished bachelor suites. Quiet, table large enough for both of us to set up computers, nice ktichen area and great WiFi. Excellent for an extended stay and my absolute favourite Vietnamese restaurant is at the end of the alley.

So, back to the bathroom sign....they're asking that you use a scoop of water from the bucket to dump in the toilet instead of a full flush. The things you learn!