Lao Cai

Overnight train from Hanoi (not at all comfortable - bed length not made for tall foreigners, AC blowing hot, humid, musty air) arriving in Lao Cai in the far north at 5:30 am. Usual chaos outside the train terminal, then off to our hotel - the local People's Committee Guesthouse. A seven story concrete "local" hotel with no elevator. As the foreigner, I was given the VIP suite on the third floor (30 USD a night).

On the train, Anh (prn. "Hang") my translator and I had booked the only two bunk compartment. No loud Aussie backpackers to share a tiny room with. As this is the non-stop train to the northern border town of Lao Cai, which is the jumping off spot for the famous Sapa area, the train is full of backpackers.

This is a town right on the China border (other side of the river) and NOBODY is on the street at lunch. Even at other times, it's pretty deserted.

Did I mention it's the rainy season? Hot and humid. Or, humid and hot. Standing outside at 6:00 am the sweat starts rolling down the back of my scalp.